Although peeling has become a major aesthetic treatment, it should not be left to inexperienced people. Indeed, certain skins such as black or dark skins have their specificities: ignoring them can then cause serious damage. This is why any peel must be considered as a true act of aesthetic medicine, so as not to cause any damage and to achieve perfect beauty results. Discover the main characteristics of black or dark skin.
The principle: what are the characteristics of dark skins?
A peel is a medical procedure aimed at removing a more or less deep portion of the skin, so that it regenerates in a natural way, in order to have a younger, smoother, more homogeneous skin.
A black skin peel must therefore take into account its specificities as much as possible so as not to damage it.
Pigmentation of dark skin
Dark skins, grouped in skin phototypes V and VI, get their color from the richness of pigments, melanin, produced by specialized skin cells, the melanocytes.
These melanocytes are highly activated, which explains the strong ability of dark skins to cause pigmentation spots or inflammatory hyperpigmentation (IPH).
Any peel that removes part of the skin will therefore eliminate pigments and create partially depigmented areas: this skin is then also more fragile, as it lacks natural protection.
A successful black skin peel must therefore preserve the natural pigments, without inducing an inflammatory pigmentary reaction.
The thickness of dark skin
Dark skins are often characterized by a thick and less homogeneous layer (the last layer of the epidermis made of dead cells, the corneocytes) : at equal concentration, they will be less sensitive to an acid than white skin; but their non-homogeneous nature also means that the penetration of acid can vary from one area to another.
This is why the preparatory phase for the peeling of black skin is essential, to exfoliate the skin, making it smoother and more homogeneous to the diffusion of the products.
The cutaneous film of dark skins
Dark skin is often oily and poorly hydrated, which is not mutually exclusive:
- Oily because the surface lipid film on the epidermis is abundant, often resulting in acne, blackheads and shiny skin;
- Poorly hydrated because the hydration of the dermis is not sufficient, in part due to their thickness, resulting in accelerated cellular aging.
A black skin peel should allow deep hydration, while eliminating excess sebaceous.
Indications: when to do a peel for dark skin?
A dark skin peel is specifically aimed at skin rich in melanin, from dark to black skin (phototype 5 and 6).
Because of their sensitivity, a medium TCA peel should be avoided, because of a risk of desquamation and depigmentation.
- In order to smooth the skin texture, it is necessary to opt for a gentle peel, such as a superficial peel with fruit acids.
This makes it possible to treat :
- The rough skin texture;
- Excess oil on the skin;
Blackheads and micro cysts.
- To remove pigment spots, the choice should be instead a depigmenting peel (Mela Peel) which will preserve the natural melanin.
The course of a dark skin peel session
The dark skin peel performed at the Clinique des Champs-Elysées follows the classic procedure of any peel.
Your esthetic doctor will select the right product, according to the diagnosis established beforehand, with a face check-up if necessary.
Preparation for the peel can begin 3 weeks before, with a daily prescribed treatment: it aims in particular to put your melanocytes to rest (to avoid a rebounding hyperpigmentation) and to exfoliate the stratum corneum (to have a homogeneous diffusion of the peel's acid).
On the day of the peel, your facial specialist will apply the chosen formulation to your cleansed skin. It is identical for the hands or the neck.
The Mela Peel ® mask is placed on the face, applying it more on dark spots. You must then keep this transparent mask 8 to 12 hours before rinsing well.
It is important to apply a good emollient care and a good UV protection after the dark skin peel. Mela Cream maintains the action of the Mela Peel depigmenting peel for 30 days.
Results of dark skin peels
After the peel, the complexion is more even, with skin that is less oily, healthier, softer and smoother to the touch.
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